Movement trays for paper soldiers

Most of my miniatures are based on 4x3 inch bases in groups of 9 to 12 figures all fixed to the base. This works fine for me as I don't really like moving around units with too many bases, especially individually based figures. The exceptions to this are my three paper soldier armies (1066 Norman/Saxon, Jacobite Revolution, and War of the Spanish Succession) where each unit is made up of 6 to 9 bases. The reason for this number of bases is so I can lay them down in their storage boxes when not in use. Some of the figures are just too tall for easy storage.

Saxon paper soldier units with 6 bases per unit

Up until now I have moved the multiple stand units while doing my best not to misjudge depth and catch some of the spears, causing them to get bent over. Anyway, this weekend I thought I would try and address the situation and make some movement trays using some MDF sheet.

About 20 movement trays were cut out sized 8x3 inches.

The trays were painted green, then once dry painted with PVA glue and the scatter/flock lightly sprinkled over. I was not going for a full coverage, just enough to help break up the painted flat green look.

A completed movement tray.

My test of an unpainted movement tray showed there was little movement of paper soldiers when lifting and moving them around the tabletop. This is due to their very light weight. Adding the scatter/flock adds some more friction to the tray's surface and the figures only start to shift about a bit if held at an angle of more than 30 degrees.

A 6 base Saxon Housecarl unit on a movement tray.

A 9 base WSS unit on a tray in line.

A 9 base WSS unit in column,

WSS artillery limbered.

WSS artillery unlimbered.

One advantage of the 6 base units is there is room on the movement tray for counters or dice to mark hits or other unit statuses. 

Unit with hit counter (2 hits taken so far)

Unit with dice as hit markers. Although the dice are more likely to slip off the tray than the figures.

All set up for a One Hour Wargames game using the movement trays. Hopefully with no more spears getting bent over.

Sci-Fi painting and War of the Spanish Succession rules

After deciding to take a short break from my Ancient's painting project to paint some Sci-Fi figures. A couple of figures came off the painting table. They were both test figures as I was trying to workout colour schemes I will use for the remaining figures. 

On the gaming side of the hobby I have been playing some War of the Spanish Succession games in the hope of settling on some rules.

A Plague Space Marine given a rusty look

Necromunda gang member soon to join my skirmish games

The first draft of the WSS rules are below. The combat mechanisms are very much based around those from One-Hour Wargames (Neil Thomas) but the artillery shooting rules are based on ideas from Charge! (Brig. P. Young and Lt.Col. J.P. Lawford). I opted for a different approach for artillery: firstly because I like the mechanism, and secondly it makes artillery shots more unpredictable.

The sequence of play uses playing cards to determine the order of phases in a given turn using ideas from the ruleset “The War of the Spanish Succession - Paperboys Rules”. I really like the way the approach works and it gives a clunky feel to the way a turn progresses, which seems to fit the period where armies were organised but still ponderous in their movements.

I do use Commanders and Generals in the game. These determine if units can move based on command radius, and also to rally units who may be wavering. As Commanders are used to rally troops they cease to have a command radius and your plans can get bogged down.

The Paper Soldiers march on the tabletop

Cards are used to determine the order of phases in a given turn.

Another game underway.

Draft War of the Spanish Succession Rules

Units

The armies can have the following unit types and as a general rule are made up of 8-10 units (excluding Commanders and General)...

Infantry - Line infantry in close order who faced each other at about 60 yards and blazed away until the moral of one side failed and they routed.

Dragoons - Dragoons of this period were often used as second rate cavalry mounted on inferior horses. However, they could dismount to hold and secure key battlefield positions, such as buildings, when required.

Cavalry - Heavy cavalry used on the battlefield to engage and defeat enemy cavalry, then fall upon enemy trains, guns and infantry. A combination of Cavalry and Dragoons should make up a good third to fifty percent of the units in a force.

Artillery - Cannon were generally heavy to move and were static once they took up position on the battlefield. They were used to soften up enemy forces and any strong points.

Commanders - Individual bases representing brigade commanders.

General - Individual bases representing the General.

Sequence of Play

The game is played in a series of turns. During a turn there are a series of phases which players perform in order when their colour playing card is revealed. To prepare take six red and six black playing cards and shuffle the deck. Assign a colour to each side, for example, the French are black and the Alliance are red.

The order in which player’s perform their turn phases is determined by taking cards off the top of the card deck. Each time their colour card is revealed a player performs their next phase in the following order:

1) Artillery Shooting - a player resolves all artillery shooting.

2) Musket Shooting - player resolves all musket shooting.

3) Cavalry and Dragoon moves - a player can move all cavalry or dragoon units within a command range. This includes resoling charges where a unit moves into contact.

4) Infantry moves - a player can move all infantry units within a command range.

5) Artillery moves - a player can move any artillery and mortar units within a command range.

6) Commander/General moves and rallying - a player can move any commander and use them to rally units.

Once a player has performed their phase, take the next card from the top of the pack and a player performs another phase. This continues until both players have performed all their phases in order, then shuffle the card deck and start the next turn.

Movement

Units can be either in column or deployed. Once deployed a unit cannot return to column. Units may move up to the distances listed below during their turn.

Infantry in column = 6”

Infantry deployed = 3”

Cavalry and dragoon in column = 12”

Cavalry and dragoons deployed = 9”

Dismounted dragoons = 0”

Artillery limbered = 6”

Artillery deployed (unlimbered) = 0”

Commanders and General = 12”

Units may only move if within 6” radius of a Commander or 12” radius of a General. If outside of the command radius a unit can still turn to face enemy units.

A unit may make one turn at start or end of their move. When turning units pivot on their central point.

Units once they have changed their formation to deployed cannot move back into column formation again. The change in formation must occur before a unit is moved.

Dragoons are able to dismount after moving and it takes a full move to mount again. Once they dismount, they are considered to be in a deployed formation. Dismounted dragoons cannot move and must remount to move.

Artillery units once unlimbered cannot move for the remainder of the game, but are allowed to turn.

Units may never move through other units.

Only cavalry and mounted dragoons can move (charge) into contact with enemy units.

Only deployed infantry units, artillery units or dismounted dragoons can shoot.

Terrain

Woods - Cannot be entered.

Towns - only Infantry & dismounted dragoons may end a move in a town, unless on a road. Towns provide cover to infantry and dismounted dragoons.

Marsh/Lake - impassable.

Rivers - Can be only crossed via bridges & fords. It takes a full move to cross.

Streams - cannot be crossed by artillery. All other units take a full move to cross.

Fields - Infantry & dismounted dragoons can claim cover.

Hills - all units can move onto hills. Provide benefits to those defending hills against charges, and artillery can fire over units.

Cavalry Charges

Only deployed cavalry and deployed mounted dragoons can charge into combat. Charges are resolved by moving the attacking unit into contact with the target unit with the following restrictions:

• The attacking unit can only pivot up to 45 degrees before charging.
• The attacking unit can only attack a single unit.

Combat is one sided with only the attacking unit causing casualties. The attacking unit rolls a D6+2 for cavalry and D6 for dragoons to determine the number of hits, which are modified by the following:

• Half the score if the target is uphill
• Double the score attacking the flank or rear of the target unit.

After the hits are applied. If the target unit is not eliminated, the attacking cavalry or dragoon unit must retire 6”.

Artillery Shooting

Only unlimbered (deployed) artillery units are able to shoot. The procedure for shooting is as follows:

• Check field of fire - units can only shoot at a single unit within 45 degree of their frontal facing side.
• Check the range - to determine the range roll a D6-1 and multiply by 6”. If the target is in cover, deduct a further 2 from the score. Measure to see if the target can be reached.

Assess hits - roll a D6 to determine the hits.

Artillery can shoot over other units if they are positioned on a hill.

Musket Shooting

Only deployed infantry and dismounted dragoons are able to shoot. The procedure for shooting is as follows:

• Check field of fire - units can only shoot at a single unit within 45 degree of their frontal facing side. Units in towns have a 360 degree field of fire.
• Check the range - infantry and dragoons have a range of 9”.
• Assess hits - infantry roll a D6 to and dragoons roll a D6-2

If the target is in cover halve the number of hits rounding up fractions.

Routs and Rallies

Units are routed and removed from the tabletop after taking 15 or more hits. Units can be rallied and D6 hits removed when a commander is attached.

Generals and Commanders

Commanders are used to order units to move and in the case of Commanders rally units.

To order units to move a Commander must be with 6” radius of the unit and 12" for a General.

Commanders are able to rally units which are wavering by attaching themselves to the unit. Upon joining a unit their number of hits is reduced by the score of a D6. The Commander must remain with the unit for the remainder of the game and cannot order other units, except the one they joined.

Generals are not allowed to rally units.

Commanders and Generals cannot be shot at or charged. If they are in the way, then move then 6" out of the way and towards the rear.

War of the Spanish Succession completed first phase

This week I finally was able to complete the first phase of my War of the Spanish Succession project. A total of 20 units, sufficient units for some One-Hour Wargames with each army has: 4 infantry, 2 cavalry, 2 artillery, and 2 dragoon units. 

I started the project at the end of April and have been completing about 3 units per week. Here are a few photos of the armies...

French Army

British and Dutch Army

A closer shot of the French army

French dragoons in the foreground

British artillery

Closer view of British and Dutch forces

While snipping away at these paper soldier units. I have been thinking about some rules and jotting down notes which I will be testing out over the next few weeks. In the meantime I have a WW2 Western Desert game to finish.

Currently on the tabletop

War of the Spanish Succession project progress

This last weekend provided quite a bit of hobby time and I was able to finish off one dragoon unit and completed a second unit. Both dragoon units have mounted and dismounted troops.

One completed dragoon unit and one ready for basing.

This now means I have completed for each side: four infantry, two cavalry, and two dragoon units. Almost all the units required to play a couple of One Hour Wargame scenarios. Only the artillery are outstanding.

In between sessions of cutting and preparing the paper soldier units I have been reading through "Charge! Or how to play war games" and will be adding a few officers and sergeants to the units I have completed so far. Not that they will have any function in my games other than to improve the look of the units.

A photograph from Charge with all the officers and sergeants

Today I have completed two British artillery units and have started preparatory work on the French artillery.

British artillery

WSS paper soldier dragoon unit completed

During the week I was able to complete a paper soldier dragoon unit. Actually two units were cut out and based, one of mounted dragoons and a second of dismounted dragoons. While designed for the War of Spanish Succession, I will be putting them to use as Government dragoons for some Jacobite Rebellion games.

Mounted dragoons

Dragoons on dismounted

The current project has completed so far:

• French - 4 infantry and 2 cavalry
• Dutch/British - 4 infantry, 2 cavalry, and 1 dragoon

As much as I try to line up both sides of the cut out paper soldiers there are occasions where the front and back can be out of line. This is particularly so for mounted units. One trick I use is to colour in with a felt-tipped pen the out of line area. While not perfect it certainly helps to disguise these areas.

Out of line after cutting.

Touched up with felt-tipped pen.

Effect once all based up and finished.

Looping back on the Jacobite Rebellion paper armies, which I completed about a year ago (May 2019) with a one or two later unit additions. I have had a number of games with them to develop and tryout different rules and these seem to be reasonably settled for the present. So I was thinking it is time to use these armies in a campaign.

The rules created in a zine style.

The layout of the zine.

While my main campaign focus is the WW2 Western Desert currently underway. It is always fun to sneak in a small campaign of a few battles or smaller engagements. Having recently completed a area based campaign with my English Civil War and the WW2 Western Desert being a linear style campaign, I though a different style of campaign would be good to do.

The campaign approach I am planning is going to use ideas from the children's snakes and ladders game. The snakes and ladders will be replaced with red and blue arrows and represent the success and tribulations of campaigning. For example: muddy roads, supporters join the cause, desertions, no pay, intelligence arrives from spy in enemy camp, etc.)

Snakes and ladders game example

The arrival at the finish by one side or the other will result in a final and decisive battle. Obviously, getting to the finish first will be beneficial in terms of troops and/or terrain placement on the tabletop. Along the way there will be engagement squares which will unlike the original game will have both a snake (tribulation) and ladder (success). When landing on these squares a battle occurs and the campaign moves to the tabletop. Win and you ascend towards the finish, lose and you descend back towards the start.

WW2 Campaign Turn 4 and WSS Paper Soldiers

The Western Desert WW2 Campaign turn 4 has not gone well for the Allies offensive. In their first attack (game 1) they failed to gain ground and ended in a stalemate. While their second attack was thrown back.

Campaign position in turn 4

The Allies now have a choice of pushing ahead with a third attack or calling off their offensive. Their divisions, particularly their armoured divisions, are all in need of supplies to refit and reequip. While most Axis divisions are in good shape after being resupplied at the start of campaign turn 4.

Supply status

The options are to launch an attack using one of their depleted armoured divisions or have an infantry division lead an attack. Neither option seems palatable, especially to win turn 4 will require winning the next two games due to the drawn game. So the Allied offensive is called off after successfully pushing the Axis back one zone during campaign turn 3. They will resupply and await the Axis response.

French cavalry

During the week I was able to complete two cavalry units for my WSS project. All being well I will complete another 2 cavalry units this weekend and can move on to some dragoons. My first goal of this project is to create enough units to play some of the scenarios from One-Hour Wargames.

British cavalry

No games so far this weekend with the weeding offensive currently dragging out in the back garden.

WSS project with paper soldiers and WW2 campaign

Not much wargaming this weekend as the weather was half decent and I have spent a lot more time in the garden weeding. All being well I may get another WW2 Western Desert campaign game in this Sunday late afternoon or evening.

British and French paper soldier units

On the modelling side I have been able to complete another two infantry units for my War of the Spanish Succession project. I now have four infantry units completed for both the French and Dutch/British forces. I will add to these units, but my initial goal is to have sufficient units for some One-Hour Wargaming scenarios. I will be moving on to the cavalry units next.

A couple of months ago a subscribed to Wargames Illustrated prime which gives access to old copies of the magazine. I have been reading through these older copies and searching out various Marlburian rules and articles. The period seemed to be written about reasonably frequently in issues from the 1990's.

A very useful resource for searching out articles has been the blog Tiny Tin Men which has an index of all articles over the years for a number of magazines. http://snv-ttm.blogspot.com/p/wargames-magazine-database.html

The next WW2 campaign game has been determined (campaign turn 4 game 2). After the first Allied armoured assault failed to secure a victory. The next game has the 2nd Armoured division attacking the Italian Ariete armoured division. This should be an interesting game with both divisions fully equipped.

Campaign Map showingteh drawn game and next attack.

As per usual, terrain cards are used to determine the tabletop layout. Both sides can switch two adjacent cards in an attempt to reconfigure the tabletop to their advantage. In this game there will be three objectives.

Terrain cards decide the battlefield features.

Time to setup the tabletop...

War of the Spanish Succession project

The War of the Spanish Succession project is coming along at a steady pace and I completing units at the rate of two a week. My initial goal is to create enough units for some One-Hour Wargaming gaming using the scenarios, which will mean each army will require:

• 4 Infantry
• 2 Dragoons
• 2 Artillery
• 2 Cavalry

A command stand will also be included, possibly just for completeness and the look.

Units completed so far.

I have a been reading a few books on the armies and their tactics.

Current reading

So far in my reading I have gleaned:

• Cavalry has two types - horse and dragoons
• Cavalry make up about 30% of armies on average
• Dragoons reconnoitred ahead and protected flanks
• Brigades were ad-hoc formations
• Cavalry were to engage and defeat enemy cavalry, then fall upon enemy trains, guns and infantry
• Infantry faced each other at about 60 yards and blazed away until the nerve of one side failed
• Guns slow rate of movement
• Guns used to support the destruction of strong points

This weekend's task waiting for the scissors to snip out two more units

War of the Spanish Succession project

This week I started a War of the Spanish Succession project using the paper soldiers created by Peter Dennis. I plan to start making sufficient units to play some One Hour Wargame games, then see about expanding the number of units from there.

The source of the figures

When photocopying the pages of figures I increase the page size from A4 to A3. This has the effect of increasing the figures from 28mm to 42mm. The reason I like to increase the size is two fold: 1) I like the artwork and it is easier to see scaled up, and 2) it is easier to cut the figures.

When making the paper soldiers I stick the paper over an insert of light card to give them some strength. When this is later coated with PVA glue it makes the figures quite sturdy. The addition of the card does mean side on there is a more noticable white edge. This is quickly covered up by running a felt-tipped brush pen around the edge. The brush type of nib on these pens make it easy to get into tricky parts of the figures.

A white edge is covered up with a felt-tipped pen.

Brush felt-tipped pen.

The edge after using the felt-tipped pen.

Having cut out the blocks of figures they are stuck to stands with a base piece of thick card and two side bits of similar card cut down the centre which are used to trap the figures.

Bases are made from a bottom piece and two side pieces stuck on top that trap the figures on either side.

Figures are stuck to stands

Once fixed to the base a generous layer of PVA glue is applied. This improves the stiffness of the models greatly. Finally, the bases are painted green and flocked which also gets coated with PVA glue.

A finished unit.

I have tried units with two rows, but units with three rows gives a better look when on the tabletop.